Friday, 3 August 2012

An Awesome Week

After I did Technicolour i've been really keen to check out the 7a's at Dinbren. Spidey had recently done Orgasmatron and recommended it highly! I was originally off put as the start is aided (8a un-aided) Needless to say I went for it. Didn't take long to work out on the dog and I felt it would go quick. First redpoint I got wrong handed at the very start (punt). Rested for a minute and went again and ticked my first 7a in a session! Psyched! A very good route! Also flashed Where's the Presidents Brian 6b+ as a warm up.

Riding off the psyche of doing a 7a in a session I headed up again with Leon to get on Quick Flash 7a. I'd had a quick look at this awhile ago but couldn't even hold the slopey rail by the 2nd bolt. Finding out quickly I could now hold this and then worked out the crux throw after this quickly I was keen to get straight on redpoint. It's a really short route (3 bolts) but has a really cool crux. This went 1st redpoint. At the end of the session we had a quick look at Wonderwall 7a behind a tree on the Right Wing. This was one of Spidey's routes and is 2 bolts long (?!) had a quick look and new straight away this wouldn't be a walk in the park.

Went back today with Leon for the send of Wonderwall. Took some time to work out some more beta. It's insanely techinical and one of them routes you need to do pricisly to get up the thing. Had two redpoints and kept coming off the top. Rested well but got stressed as it was going dark, really wanted the send today. Last go I managed it but not without a fight! Awesome! Three 7a's in a week! Off to Ceuse next week so this was a great week to set me up for the trip!

No comments: