Friday, 18 January 2013

So Far So Good

Into the New Year and feeling good after bouldering sessions at the wall this winter so far, been doing Repeaters on the Beastmaker since November and seeing definite gains. Last week I managed to complete 3 sets of my work out for the first time

10 - 15 minute warm up

Pinch Grip (2x4 attached to a 10kg weight) 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 6 - Left and Right arm
3 Minute Rest

Alternating between hanging 140 degrees, 90 degrees and full lock for the next three grips
3 finger open hand pockets 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 6
3 Minute Rest
20 Degree sloper 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 6
3 Minute Rest
Middle 2 Pockets 5 sec hang 5 sec rest x 6
5 Minute rest

Psyched! I've been reading up a lot on training lately and been pretty stunned by the result of gains people are making by following a rough version of Eva Lopez's progression training plan. So much so that i've started a Weighted Max Hang cycle myself, first session went well as follows:

Weight at time of hangs 68kg

I did 10 minutes warm up which included press-ups, stretching and feet on hangs.

Beastmaker slot below the 45 degree slopers, 20mm? I used this for all hangs in a half crimped grip.

Progressive Set
Hang 10sec with - 5kg
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with - 7.5kg
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with - 9kg
rest 3 minutes

Main Set
Hang 10sec with 10kg - 5 sets - %BW - 14.71% - Total Weight - 78kg
rest 3 minutes

I manged 2 extra sets than planned, the hangs themselves felt hard and I had to try hard

As a result of successfully completing 5 sets the next session plan is to up the weight by 2.5kg and hopefully complete 3 main sets. Really keen to see what gains can be made from this, i've give my mate Kieran the heads up on this and he's trying it out too. It's good to mix things up on the Beastmaker to prevent a plateau. Once i've completed a cycle of Max Hangs i'll do another cycle of repeaters and should give me some good Power Endurance gains ready for some sport this spring!

Onto what i've been up to lately...

Had a good first session of the year at The Sheep Pen on 6th January. Managed to tick Dog Shooter V4 an awesome 3 star problem which is definitely the best of the grade i've done. Also ticked a V4 on the back of the Pinch Block, hard at the grade and had some awesome moves. Also tried Toe Dragon but found the holds pretty slopey (working on training slopers lately) didn't manage the tick and had a quick go on Kingdom of Reign V6, brillaint problem but couldn't even manage the first move! All the guys had a good session with plenty of ticks here's the video:


The Sheep Pen from Luke Owens on Vimeo.

The following weekend Luke Clarke, Baby Leon and I headed up to Ruthin Escarpment. Expecting it to be wet, it wasn't! Seems like a great winter spot as most of the Clwyd suffers from loads of seepage this time of the year.

Had no main aims for the day but I was keen to look at the 7b on Butterfly Buttress. Managed to tick the 6c Fritillery Flake, I remember trying this a long time ago and couldn't even get off the deck! Great little route. I then belayed Luke on the 7b, he thought this was soft for the grade previously but after getting on it again reckoned it wasn't as easy as he thought! I filmed him in two halfs on it to get some good footage.

Up to the first bolt on this is a V3 boulder problem I first did almost exaclty 1 year ago and found it hard then. This time I did it first time and repeated it every time about 4 - 5 times, it's great to come back to things and see such an improvement! I also tried the upper section of this and managed to figure it out and do the moves very quickly, no time for a redpoint as Baby Leon woke up for his food! Very keen to get back for the send! I then got some footage of Luke crushing the 7c Sting Like a Bee, needless to say he was psyched!


Ruthin Escarpment from Luke Owens on Vimeo
 
Lastly I had a good session at the wall last night, managed 4 of the V5/6 problems in a session! A personal best, awesome!

Was planning on heading back to Ruthin this weekend but the snow has decided to come. . .

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