Monday, 28 January 2013

Training Training Training

The weather has been shocking lately with a lot of snow. Despite this I've been out on rock the past two Sundays so I guess I can't complain!

Headed back to Ruthin Escarpment on the 20th January, there had been a lot of snow already and anyone else wouldn't of bothered to even try and find dry rock, needless to say, Myself, Ryan and Kieran were out.

The Escarpment was completely dry despite the snow coming down all day. I managed to tick Rumble in the Jungle a hard V4 which starts on a cool tufa feature and finishes up a hard V3. Felt good, keen to try the V5 link that traverses left further and finishes up the flake. I had a quick go on the 7b route The Butterfly Collector but it was way to cold for tieing on and I sacked it off as the top was wet.

The main event of the day for me was flashing a V5/6C. None of the other guys had tried it and were sieging the traverse instead. Not keen for that I wanted to try the other problems on the left of the crag. I liked the look of the problem on the far left which starts sitting under a roof, a good heel hook and ledges lead to a hard rockover/lockoff to a small sidepull before getting the top. Really happy to flash a problem of this grade, it is probably more V4 but I'm no good at grading. Either way it's my hardest flash to date! Here's some footage:

Ruthin Escarpment - V5/6C - Flash from Luke Owens on Vimeo.

Yesterday I headed to Nesscliffe with the Boosh Crew. It's great to have such a good scene locally and alot of psyched people!
I'm the one attempting to climb
I haven't been here for awhile and was keen to again try ST a hard V5. After asking everyone for beta, everyone does it a different way. Every way I try this problem I find equally hard! Fortunately I made progress compared to last time I was on it and can finally touch the lower pocket with a cheeky drop knee. Real tension move so I'm working on some core to hopefully get this on in the bag. I also had a few goes on The Planche V6 again, I can do the first lock off easily and getting the sharp crimp fine, just moving my right foot from under the bulge is impossible, again I think this is core strength related - a pattern is emerging here!

Everyone bailed to the climbing wall early afternoon due to the hailstone but I stuck it out to try The Highwaymans Traverse a really cool V5. I managed to get through the crux 3 times but kept pumping out on easier moves. I definitely don't help myself lately, yo-yo-ing my attempts on problems and not resting properly. I was seriously tired by the end of the session. I must of tried ST at least 30 times. . . Not good!

So. . . Training . . .

I've been doing alot of training at home lately as well as hitting the wall every Tuesday. The weighted Max Hangs are going well, I did 3 x 10 secs of 11.5kg last Thursday. I've also started working core more and have devised the ultimate weapon. . .

Killer Core!
 15 Press Ups
 30 Crunches with Legs up
20 Aqua Man's
30 Pelvic Lifts
1 Minute Plank with Alternate Leg Raises
15 Press Ups
15 Side Raises - Both Sides
Rest 3 Minutes
20 V Ups
20 Leg Raises
20 Crunches with Legs Up
20 Aqua Man's
1 Minute Plank with Alternate Leg Raises
Static Spider A Muerte...!

Did this this evening and it felt hard, hoping to get this done at least 3 times a week! Psyched!

Also did some Deadhangs this eve concentrating on weaknesses:

13kg Pinches x 3 both arms for 30 secs
Slopers - One arm on 35's and other on 20's x 3 for 12 seconds both arms alternate.
Back 3 - 10 sec hang

Can now hang both of the 35's for 12 secs too - Happy!

Also started doing weights again when I can specifically shoulder exercises to add some agnostic training into the mix. Hopefully this extra training will pay off come summer when I'm back out on the routes . . .

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